Most people stop at the railing.
They take the photo and go back to the car park. The beach is another 150 metres down. We walk you there at first light, and a boat brings you out.
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The railing150 m above the sand
This is where everyone turns back.
The photo gets taken from this platform. Then it's the car park and the fast boat home. You're going the other way.
06:10The steps · 130 m
We leave at first light.
Before the day boats land and the heat sets in. Six walkers, and a guide who has done this a thousand times.
17:40The cove · 88 m
Stay until
the light turns.
By half past five the cove has gone gold. That's when the boat comes for you.
The switchbacks55 m
Then it gets steep.
Packed earth and bamboo rails, about four hundred steps of it. This is the part that keeps the beach empty.
The sand2 m
Nobody else
is here.
No sunbeds, no speakers, no day trippers. Just the surf doing the talking. Nobody swims, the break is too heavy. You came for the quiet.
17:40Past the break
And you don't climb back up.
A jukung waits off the beach at golden hour. It takes you round the head and home, with the cliff you walked down going pink behind you.